Snow Canyon State Park, Utah

37.2 degrees North (latitude), and 113.6 degrees West (longitude)

Chances are you have either made a quick stop to grab a bite to eat or you have just driven straight through St. George on Interstate 15 in southern Utah. Either way St. George serves as the gateway to some of Utah's most well known and spectacular scenery including Zion National Park and Bryce Canyon National Park. Lesser known, but absolutely stunning is Snow Canyon State Park (SCSP) located in the southwest corner of the state in Washington County.  Wow! This relatively small state park (7,000 acres) is filled with red and white sandstone cliffs, lava flows, petrified sand dunes, sandy washes, lava tubes, and lava flows. It is a gorgeous geologic playground. 



 
Having only ever visited the SCSP website, we packed our jackets and bikes, and headed westward. When visiting Utah, we enjoy camping, but decided to take advantage of a great deal and stay in the lap of luxury at The Inn at Entrada.  It proved to be a smart choice because halfway to our final destination our bikes were covered in ice. It was November after all, and while packing for the trip, it seemed crazy to even bring our bikes.

Frozen Bikes

Inn at Entrada

Just as we had hoped, The Inn at Entrada was a treat. Nestled at the base of the park's entrance among sandstone hills, it is pleasantly secluded and offers spectacular views of the scenery. Both the park and the Inn are the antithesis of St. George, the city in which they are located. We booked a Studio Casita for our family of four and enjoyed all the amenities including a garage, 2 patios, access to the Sports & Fitness Center, bar, and restaurant. We basked in the understated elegance of the Inn and were so happy that southern Utah's weather is much warmer than most of Colorado. We were excited to begin exploring the area.  

We unloaded our bikes, and stored them in our private garage for the night. The next morning, after a breakfast prepared in our mini kitchen, we rode into SCSP. Fortunately for us, it is uncommon to actually find snow at Snow Canyon. The park's extraordinary desert terrain is mesmerizing. You can even catch glimpses of the rare gila monsters and desert tortoises for those wildlife enthusiasts.

We visited in the fall which is one of the best times of year to have both the park and the Inn to yourself, but not the best time of year to spot either the gila monster or the desert tortoise. Mother Nature was sure to provide many other features for us to explore. We hiked to petrified sand dunes, lava flows & tubes, and the boys played in mini sand dunes. 

The geology is both stunning and rich. For more details visit Utah Geology. There are more than 20 miles of hiking and biking trails with elevations ranging from 3,000 feet (915 m) to 5,024 feet (1,532 m). For a map of the park and information about specific trails visit Red Rock Adventures.

Snow Canyon State Park is truly a natural history gem and only about 10 minutes from the interstate and numerous strip malls. There are, however, some benefits to having all those chain stores nearby. We were more than happy to treat ourselves to a tasty meal at In-N-Out Burger, and relieved that one of our favorite health food chains has a store in St. George too! After the boys finished their burger and fries, we picked up some sundries at Natural Grocers by Vitamin Cottage.

Snacks in hand, we were ready for the next day's happenings...another bike ride! Don't be fooled by all the strip malls. Exit the freeway and stay for a night or two, even three. This is a place worth getting to know. 
 

Everglades National Park & Key Largo, Florida

25.7 degrees North (Latitude), and 80.6 degrees West (Longitude)  

Did you know that Florida is home to 11 national parks, memorials, monuments, seashores, and more?  It was tough to decide which places to visit, but we agreed that Everglades National Park (ENP) was a must-see. Since we had only one day to visit the park, we had to make the most of of it. Shark Valley is located in the northernmost region of ENP. Several of our guides books mentioned that this was the easiest and most accessible place to observe wildlife. We had planned to rent bikes, but there was a huge storm passing and renting bikes was not advised and strongly discouraged. We chose to hike instead.  Just 2 minutes into our walk along the Shark Valley Tram West Road we began to have what we refer to as a  'National Geographic Experience'.  We were in the midst of many alligators and their young!  At one point, as we were admiring a cluster of young gators, I distinctly remember wondering out loud, "Where is the mother?" Within seconds she rapidly approached, scaring my older son, Reid, and I up onto a park bench. While my husband grabbed our youngest son, Tanner, and ran backwards as fast as he could. Alligators are impressive creatures. A typical adult gator weighs about 750lbs, and measures approximately 13ft in length. Gators ought not be confused with crocodiles, but the average person may find it difficult to distinguish the difference between the two, especially from afar.  There are some general guidelines to keep in mind; Alligators prefer fresh water and are usually seen in the eastern part of Florida. Crocodiles can tolerate saltwater and are usually found in the southern half of the state.

Young Alligator

Gator with young (right of photo)

In addition to these beautiful reptiles, on our visit to the Everglades, we also saw several species of wading birds, large banana spiders, Anhingas, and several species of turtles. Wildlife abounded along this flat paved road. It's hard to imagine that there would have been more wildlife to see had we spent more time in the park. Planning our trip towards the latter part of the rainy season increased our odds of wildlife sightings significantly. Consistent rainfall leads to high water levels which enable wildlife to disperse over a greater area. Thanks to the abundance of water, we encountered all sorts of creatures on our trip. 

Red-bellied Turtle

Anhinga

Banana Spider

After an exciting day in the northern area of the Everglades, we headed to South Beach (SoBe) to meet our friends for a delicious dinner at Puerto Sagua. We enjoyed traditional Cuban dishes like ropa vieja, yuca, plantanos, & torta Cubana.  The atmosphere at this neighborhood restaurant is comfortable and their prices are moderate for SoBe.

With our stomachs completely full, we continued on down the highway to Key Largo, where we had reserved a cozy cottage at Bay Harbor Lodge. September is officially the beginning of their slow season, so we took advantage of low rates, and had the place to ourselves. Our quaint tropical efficiency was equipped with a full kitchen, in/outdoor eating areas, and kayaks for use in the bay.

We were tempted to stay at the Bay Harbor and play all day, but John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park was so close, we had to try our hand at snorkeling in the nation's first underwater sea park. Some locals recommended Quiescence Diving Services - diving and snorkeling outfitters.  After visiting their site and reading their tag line, "Tired of diving in a crowd?", we decided to book a day trip out to the coral reefs. This is a good time to mention that hurricane Igor was approximately 300 miles off shore that week. Throughout our trip, Igor had contributed to large waves, rough tide, and great surfing.  True to their advertisement, Quiescence operates small boats for less crowded experiences, and we were excited for a more intimate experience. Unfortunately, the rough tide made our boat ride very extremely uneasy, and my husband became seasick almost immediately. Side note: If you are prone to seasickness, it may be best to book a tour through the JP State Park on a larger sea faring vessel.  Tanner and I worked pretty hard against the wave surges to get out to the coral reef, but caught some good glimpses of their beauty, albeit for only a few minutes. Joe and Reid hung back, closer to the boat where Reid reported that, "Dad fed the fish!". At least we all saw the beautiful mangroves on our way out to the reef. 

After getting our land legs back, we headed over to Cannon Beach and explored the remnants of an early Spanish shipwreck approximately 100 feet offshore. All that snorkeling made us hungry and Denny's Latin Cafe served up delicious authentic Cuban food.

The southern tip of Florida was beautiful and welcoming. We all agreed Florida is a natural history paradise, with white sand beaches, and crystal clear blue water! Our recommendation is to stay away from amusement parks, and explore Florida outdoors. There is so much to see and do!

Que te vaya bien!

     

Space Coast - Kennedy Space Center, Canaveral National Seashore & Indialantic, Florida

28.6 degrees North (Latitude), and 80.6 degrees West (Longitude)

Our plans to travel to Florida's Cape Canaveral & Kennedy Space Center began with my son Reid's desire to view one of NASA's final space shuttle launches. None of us had ever seen a launch before, nor had we spent any real time in Florida's natural areas.  I got to work researching the area and making this dream trip a reality.  Well, as anyone who has ever tried to view a launch knows, actually seeing one is never guaranteed. If you live nearby, your chances increase dramatically, but you need to have a very flexible schedule. Our friend Erik flew to Florida 3 times last fall and did not get to see a launch. There are a million reasons why a launch could be delayed, but only one set of circumstances under which one will actually occur. Unfortunately, we were not among that lucky group of folks who watched the Space Shuttle Discovery exit Earth's atmosphere for the last time.  However, the Kennedy Space Center is open year-round, and houses several NASA mission collections including moon rocks! Plus, it offers a variety of  fun space related activities. The positive side of not seeing a launch is that you have plenty of time to explore this fascinating sub-tropical environment. As I began to plan our trip, I discovered that Florida is chock-full of beautiful National and State Parks. Once I secured a house swapping situation, I purchased airline tickets to a lesser-known Florida airport.

Flying into Melbourne International Airport, FL (Space Coast) was a logistical dream. This airport is from the good old days...small, easily accessible, clean, and friendly. After landing, it took us 15 minutes to get our rental car, and were on our way. Side note: Ticket prices were the same price as Orlando International Airport, FL.

We swapped houses with a couple in Melbourne, and were like two ships passing in the night. We never actually met in person, but arranged to swap houses after meeting online. Their home was perfect; we each had our own bedroom, a nice kitchen, washer and dryer, and a lovely screened in porch (essential in Florida)....for free! House swapping is a great way to familiarize yourself with a city or town, while having all the comforts of home.  An added bonus is meeting interesting folks, and if things work out well, you can plan on swapping more than once.  To set up a house swap you may want to subscribe to a service such as HomeExchange.com, or simply list your home on Craigslist. Rick Steve provides some helpful tips on house swapping.

Reid in front of VAB (Vehicle Assembly Building)

Future NASA employee

After settling in, we drove north to Kennedy Space Center (KSC), where we spent a couple of  days visiting as many aeronautic sites as possible. One of the most rewarding activities was KSC's guided tour. We were able to catch a glimpse of the Space Shuttle Discovery (from afar & through an open bay door), the Vehicle Assembly Building, and the NASA causeway (where launches are viewed at Cape Canaveral). The Shuttle Launch Experience was SO much fun for the kids that we boarded the simulator twice!

Once we felt like we had learned all we needed to know about NASA, we were off to explore Cape Canaveral National Seashore.  As luck would have it, it was peak bioluminescence season. We reserved a night kayaking trip with A Day Away Adventures, and met them at Mosquito Lagoon the next evening. (Yes, there were LOTS of mosquitos. Wear proper gear and bring bug spray. They are vicious!)  We arrived well before dark, and were outfitted with sea kayaks, PFDs (personal flotation device), paddles, and glow in the dark necklaces (these helped us to see each other in the dark). Once the safety talk was completed, we began paddling into the mangroves. Our trip coincided with the end of rainy season, and since fresh water was abundant, wildlife was as well. While at the seashore, we saw many osprey & bald eagles, a bottlenose dolphin (at least that Joe's story), several West Indian Manatees, and schools of mullet. 

Bioluminescence refers to tiny single celled organisms that light up when agitated. So when a school of mullet, a manatee, or any other sea life swim by, their entire body glows in an iridescent, light-green color, much the way a green glow-in-the-dark necklace appears at night. It was a scene straight out of the movie Avatar, and the sight of hundreds of fish darting past our canoes in the dark was a surreal experience.  Completely awed by the evening, we returned to shore, and slept very well that night. 

Night kayaking Mosquito Lagoon

We spent the next day hanging out in quaint Indialantic, Fl. The white sand and warm water made for a perfectly relaxing day at the beach. When we were feeling hungry we strolled over to The Original Bizzarro Famous New York Pizza joint, right on the beach in Indialantic.  Both times we went it was packed. Just tell them what you want, pay, & move on...if you don't, you're wasting their time. The good-natured, high energy of the place feels like NYC and is, for that reason, FUN! In contrast to that, Indialantic is a sweet, patient beachside town situated on the barrier island separating the Atlantic Ocean from the Indian River Lagoon.

The Original Bizzarro New York Pizza

The Melbourne Causeway connects Indialantic to Melbourne, where our swapped home was located. There are so many benefits to house swapping. In addition to the cost savings benefit, we feel that it allows you to have a more authentic experience. For example, by having a kitchen we were free to explore the local food markets, and prepare our meals at home.  In Melbourne, we discovered a locally owned health food store, Nature's Market Health Food. We were able to get everything we needed for a week on the coast.  Early September is still very hot in Florida; too hot for many crops that grow well in Colorado during the same time.  As a result, local produce choices are limited. The store boasts a small cafe and juice bar as well.  After preparing sandwiches and snacks, we borrowed a cooler from Dave and Jane, (our house-swapping partners), packed it with ice, and ventured forth.  When we were tired of eating so healthy, we drove to historic downtown Melbourne, and ate at the original Mustard's Last Stand. Sitting in the outside patio that evening, eating Chicago-style hot dogs, fries, and enjoying a cold one was a perfect way to end our day at the beach!

As our Space Coast vacation came to a close, we were so happy to learn that Dave and Jane enjoyed Boulder as much as we enjoyed Melbourne, and we agreed to swap again in the future. 

Next time, we hope to go on a guided sea turtle walk with the Sea Turtle Preservation Society, kayak in the Sebastian Inlet, canoe in the Lower Wekiva River and Blackwater Creek, and sign the boys up for Surf Camp. We know for sure we won't be at an amusement park. Florida has too many beautiful outdoor spaces to explore!  

What is your favorite outdoor activity to do in Florida?

Green River Raft Trip - Lodore Canyon (via Silverthorne, CO)

 40.7 degrees North (Latitude), and 108.8 degrees West (Longitude)

 

In the summer of 2010 we made our first visit to Dinosaur National Monument (DNM). We had such a good time playing and rafting on the Green River for a day with OARS, we promised ourselves that we would return and explore this area more extensively.  DNM is located in northwest Colorado and northeast Utah. Although the monument straddles the border of both states, about two-thirds of the park is in Colorado.  We've heard from many folks who know and love this area that the only real way to experience Dinosaur is to explore the rivers that run through the canyons. This year, I dreamed of rafting for several days and sleeping on those shores.  Since we're not geared up for a river trip, we splurged and signed on for a multi-day rafting trip with OARS. Our friends Susan D. & Mark L. signed on for the trip with their two children too! We all agreed that an early August trip, spanning 4 days, (two of which were over a weekend), would fit our schedules.  This year, August was the best time to raft through park for two reasons: great weather and perfect water conditions for a family with young children.  Above-average snowfall, coupled with higher-than-average spring precipitation, made 2011 an epic year on most Colorado rivers.  Had we chosen an earlier date for the trip, our children would have not be able to come along, due to high water levels and the age restrictions placed by OARS for safety reason. We would have had to rescheduled our trip if the volume of water had remained too high for our youngsters.  As it turned out, OARS lifted their minimum age limit (12 years) just three weeks prior to our adventure, allowing us to take the trip as planned. If you have your own rafting gear, visit the National Park Service (NPS) web page to obtain information on planning a river trip, or to apply for a permit. The NPS requires each independent rafting group to assess their own skill and comfort levels when planning a river. There is no agency oversight once a permit is issued.  

La Perla ~ Silverthorne, CO

By the time our trip began, flow rates were lower than they had been, but still higher than average.  From Boulder, Co getting to Dinosaur requires a solid day of travel (approx. 7 hours). There are several scenic ways to get to western Colorado, and we decided to take I-70 and pass through the heavily visited Colorado mountain community of Silverthorne, CO. It is located in Summit County, which is approximately 1.5 hours from the Denver metro area.  As a result, it is extremely developed and littered with chains and outlet stores. Whenever we are just passing through, there are two things we are sure to do: First, stop for gas at Sav-O-Mat located at 299 Blue River Dr., 80498. This gas station consistently has the lowest prices around.  Second, we visit Taqueria La Perla and grab a bite to eat. La Perla serves the BEST Mexican food in town!  They sell some deliciously crispy chicharrones too! Pick up food para llevar (to go), dine-in, or grocery shop for some classic Mexican ingredients. No matter what you choose, it will be authentic and affordable. 

On longer visits when groceries are needed, we stop at Natural Grocers by Vitamin Cottage (VC) in Dillion and pick up everything we need except liquor (in Colorado alcohol is sold exclusively at liquor stores).  VC is a well-stocked health food store located right off of I-70. They feature a small grab-n-go area, and a full suite of health and beauty products too.  If we are spending the night in the area, we visit to the Tiki Bar on Lake Dillion. Their fare is simple bar food, but the mountain views are spectacular and the atmosphere lively! It is a great place to sit by the water and enjoy a beer. Not this time though,as we needed to keep moving on to Dinosaur National Monument. Onward ho!

We headed north on Hwy 40 along the Blue River passing by the Gore Range.

The Gore Range is a mountain refuge offering a variety of outdoor activities such as hiking and climbing. If you don't get a chance to spend time in this area, viewing from afar offers scenery that temps the hiking soul. 

Gore Range

After a gorgeous drive, we arrived and secured a camping spot for one night at the Green River Campground in Dinosaur National Monument. Our favorite sites are those nearest the River. These spots usually have a beach with lots of hidden treasures to find. This campground is small and a great place for young children to ride their bikes. During the summer months there are star gazing events guided by amateur astronomers who generously bring their scopes to share. With one of these shared scopes, we were fortunate to view a binary star, (which is two distinct stars, although they appeared as one originally); a 'blue' star and a 'red' star.  DNM is not affected by light pollution, so once complete darkness arrives, the sky becomes a vast and brilliant sea of lights.   

Green River Campground

Once our camp was secured and setup, we drove into to Vernal, UT for a pre-river trip meeting at the OARS headquarters (Don Hatch River Expeditions-the original river running company). Side note: Oars acquired Hatch in 2007.  In 1929 Bus Hatch, along with his brothers and cousins, constructed a wooden boat and set out for the Green River, in what is now Dinosaur National Monument, to explore its canyons. Their legacy remains.  That night we met Brett Wojciak, our lead river guide. He apprised us of what we might expect on the river, and handed out dry bags. 

Don Hatch Warehouse

Dry Bags

The next morning at the OARS headquarters, our group loaded on to a bus and headed for the Gates of Lodore (a 2.5 hour drive). After crossing the Colorado, we made a coffee & liquor stop in the teeny town of Dinosaur. Our bus driver stopped at Christie's Liquor which opens at 8AM.  This bit of information is helpful to know, since state run Utah liquor stores open later in the day, and have little to no refrigeration.  After stocking up for the trip, we were ready to continue on.  

We drove for at least 2 more hours, and were more than ready to get on the water once we arrived at our put-in spot, the Gates of Lodore Campground area. Our amazing guides had worked all morning to get our gear packed and by the time we got off the bus. After a safety talk, we loaded up and paddled the rafts toward the Lodore Canyon entrance. We were on our way!

Gates of Lodore

The Green River cuts right through the Lodore Canyon and Dinosaur National Monument, making for a stunning view of Pre-cambrian sandstone and limestone cliffs. The canyon was named by the Powell Expedition of 1869 after the English poem 'Cataract of Lodore'.  Today, the Green River is damned at Flaming Gorge Reservoir, and daily inflow rates dictate the volume of water released. At its peak this year, the Green was running at approximately 8,500 cubic feet/second (cfs), with later season rates closer to 2,450 cfs. Compare that to June of 1869, when John Wesley Powell and his men entered Lodore Canyon and the estimated flow was likely running at 25,000cfs! No wonder they lost a boat with all their supplies at Disaster Falls. It's incredible they didn't loose more. Our trip was much more relaxing and worry-free. In fact, it was down right luxurious! Our guides prepared delicious meals, showed us amazingly places, and shared Their knowledge of the interesting geology, natural history, archaeology and anthropology of the area. Daily, we saw the wildlife that inspired the Native American art along the canyon walls: river otters, big-horned sheep, golden eagles and more. 

Pictograph

Big Horn Sheep

Wake and Play!

During the mornings and afternoons, the kids enjoyed playing on the white sandy shores of the river. Each day we were invited to hike up into the various canyons, or sit and relax at camp. Daily hikes would take us to ice-cold falls or other points of interest. One day we ascended to a panoramic view atop the canyon. At a vista point, laying flat on our bellies, we peered over the edge. It was breath-taking to look out over top of the severe canyon walls, and gaze down upon the upon the natural world all around us. We descended to another amazing evening of delicious food and fun card games for all.

Coffee on the River

Mark & Susan on the inflatable tandem kayak

Sleeping on the beach

Each day brought new adventures. White water, kayaking, water fights, and absolutely perfect weather. Mostly, we just relaxed and enjoyed taking in the scenery. Our guides brought two small metal libraries that were stuffed full of interesting reading material. Among the many  finds was a 1954 National Geographic magazine featuring an article entitled, 
" Shooting Rapids in Dinosaur Country" by Jack Breed and a reprinted edition of "The Exploration of the Colorado River and Its Canyons" by John Wesley Powell. We were certainly impressed with ALL the luxuries including the 'groover', our much-appreciated bathroom. The groover is a .50 caliber ammo can fitted with a toilet seat on top. At each campsite, the crew would set up the latrine in a perfectly picturesque spot, and mark it accordingly for sake of privacy. Just know that when traveling in the high desert country of DNM one must relieve oneself (#1) in the river, so as to not pollute the surrounding beauty. When more is required (#2), the 'groover' is a necessity. Those guides would pack that metal box in and out each day, and we thanked them profusely for that! The 'groover' provided us with endless amounts of conversation material throughout the day, and we learned a new way to commune with nature!

Fortunately, all the guide companies and independent rafting groups go to such lengths to be good stewards of the land, that the campsites are pristine. The baches were so inviting that we slept out under the stars on our last night. Each night we marveled at the thick blanket of stars in the sky, and the Milky Way carving out a path right down the middle of our solar system. The innumerable shooting stars offered a spectacular light show.  If we turned off more lights, as a culture, would we appreciate our relationship to the planet, and by extension the universe more deeply? Would we treat our home with more respect and kindness? On this trip we were humbled by Mother Nature's beauty yet again.

Mitten Park Fault as viewed from Harper’s Corner

On our final day, we traveled passed the Mitten Park Fault at Harper's Corner. Here, the layers of the earth's crust that normally run horizontally have turned upwards.  A bit farther down river we floated past Split Mountain Anticline. Our trip couldn't have been better in any way. It's true, to really know Dinosaur is to travel the rivers. Get on the water for a day or week, and be sure to bring the family! 

What is your favorite river in the Intermountain west?